Archive for October, 2012

Chrysanthemum Judging for ECA Show-2012

Chrysanthemum Judging for ECA Show-2012 drs,10/05/12

Forward.
This document is a synopsis of NCS Judging rules combined with some parts of the Evergreen Chrysanthemum Association “Show rules”. It’s purpose is to provide both the judging teams and the show entrants a reliable reference on the aspects of quality and features of the various classes of Chrysanthemums. Additionally it contains some specific details on what chrysanthemum types can be entered into what sections in the show, supplementing the ECA show rules with data from the latest classification guides of the British NCS.

Preface
Per the Show rules:
1. All verities exhibited except for Section 33(American and other cultivars) must be named, registered classified and appear in the national Register of Chrysanthemums……… Or be listed in the ECA supplement of exceptions.
2. All plants must be grown by the exhibitor and competition is limited to amateur growers
3. All potted plants entered in competition must be a single plant to a pot, except section 32 (Cascades and Charms). All Tree form entries must be only 1 plant per pot.
4. To be eligible the entrant must be a paid up member of ECA as of May 1, year of show.
5. New members may exhibit as a novice for three years from the year of joining.
6. Judging will be conducted Under the National Chrysanthemum Society current code of Rules for Judging. These rules shall also apply to American and other non English varieties. However the American Chrysanthemum Society Rules for Judging may be consulted when questions arise as to form size and other characteristics
References:
1. National Chrysanthemum Society, Judging and Exhibiting, 2007 Revision
2. Chrysanthemum Judging and Exhibiting, Revised edition, published, Aug. 1998
3. Chrysanthemum Judging and Exhibiting, July, 1985
4. American Chrysanthemum Society Judging Rules, 1997 or later
5. Show Rules. Evergreen Chrysanthemum Association, Oct. 2011

Rules for Judging:
“The most meritorious Chrysanthemum bloom is one which displays form, size, freshness and color in accordance with that which is recognized as ideal for the particular type of cultivar.”
Form means approved shape of bloom as specified for the particular type at its most perfect stage of Development.
Size means a full sized specimen in keeping with the recognized normal full size for the cultivar. -Reduced size must always be penalized.
-Extra size is considered to be desirable, so long as the high standard of overall quality is
maintained. I view this as extra size could be of consideration as a tie breaker.
Freshness requires that florets should be unblemished and fresh to the tips. No damped off
Petals, no Aphids or other pests, and absence of any tired look.
Colour means that which is typical of a good colour for the cultivar.
-Reduced color must be penalized
-Color deeper than that which is normal must not be given preference
-Faint pink or green flush on some whites, and faint bronze flush on some yellows is
accepted as inherited characteristics and must not be penalized .
Uniformity between blooms of a particular cultivar, including size, form and color must always
be taken into account. But size varies between cultivars. Thus in mixed vases,
and multiple entries such as our challenges, balance is the concern rather than absolute uniformity of size.
Staging and Foliage must be taken into account in all cases

POINTS FOR CUT BLOOM ENTRIES:
Characteristic Points, sects. 1&2 Points, sects 3,4,5,6,7,10,…
Form 25 30
Size 30 20
Freshness 30 20
Colour 10 10
Staging and Foliage 5
Uniformity 10
Foliage 5
Staging 5
Total 100 100

Section 1 & 2 additional notes
-Blooms from cultivars in section 2(Mediums) cannot be shown in classes calling for section 1 blooms; and visa versa. However when a class calls for blooms of section 1 and/or section 2, both large and Medium blooms may be shown in the same class. Section 1 blooms being judged as large flowered and section 2 as medium flowered. For example, our Grand Challenge.
-Each bloom is judged against recognized size for that cultivar . Extra size is to be preferred where the desired high quality has been maintained.
-The incurving Bloom should be either closed on top or have a small area of young florets still to develop
-Many blooms in these classes still exhibit generally globular form, particularly the incurving varieties. However others tend to have rather different forms. such as Pear shaped etc. These are also acceptable when that general shape is adhered to.
-High quality blooms with extra depth relative to breadth are frequently encountered. This variation in form must be regarded as fundamentally equal to those of spherical form; but blooms lacking in depth relatively to breadth must always be down-pointed.
-Blooms that are markedly pointed at the crown must be down-pointed
-Reflexed blooms generally speaking should conform to the general standards, though in many cases there are acceptable and pleasing variations. Shoulders may be more angular, bottoms do not close in but are full floriated across the base. In some cases a few extra florets protruding below the base adds a pleasing dimension and are considered desirable, i.e. James Bryant.
-In all cases Symmetry should be of major consideration. When viewed from the top the bloom should be seen as round . When viewed from the side (any side) the bloom should be symmetric. At the bottom, closure should also be uniform.
Common Faults:
-Reduced Size (each bloom judged against the full size standard for that cultivar)
-Non Uniform shape
-Open (daisy) centers
-Non uniform lay of florets
-Untidy tops
-Gaps, creases, Wild florets etc.
-Damaged and damped off florets
-Mildew and damaged leafs, or no leafs at all
-Aphids and other bugs (Considered under the category of freshness)
-Depth less than height
Additional Notes, Incurves — sections 3,13 & 23
-Each bloom should be spherical in form. The crown should be neither pointed,
Flat, nor depressed. The base should not be flat nor elliptical due to presence of
long skirting florets.
-Florets should be smooth and free of barbs, dents or dimples. No tendency of
looseness at the base.
-Lay and density of the florets should be even throughout, no bulges, depressions,
steps or divisions.
-Florets may point toward the center of the crown, or they may whorl in one or
Both directions. In neither case should gaps or depressions be created.
-Color should be uniform throughout the bloom. Lower florets should be fresh and neither faded, discolored nor spotted. Whites and yellows in particular should be free of pinking.
Common Faults:
-Flat or depressed crown , flat base, conical shape when viewed from the side,
Elliptical outline when viewed from the side, pointed crown
-Daisy eye, centers elongated or doubled, florets loosely incurving, slightly
reflexed, dimpled , lumpiness, gaps in the outline, staleness, spotting.
-Blooms not at right angles to the stem.

Additional Notes-sections 4, 14 & 24
There are two main types of reflexed blooms:
-Fully reflexed with smooth shoulders
-Those with stiff, more spiky florets which do not form a smooth shoulder, but
Never the less develop in generally reflexing form .
– In either case blooms should be balanced in breadth and depth and circular as
viewed from above.
-Blooms Should have progressed to the 7/8 th stage of development. However if
blooms have reached the fully developed stage that is considered as equal to the
7/8th stage.
-Shoulders should be smooth, even and solid,
-At the base, the fully closed base, the flat/full base and the hollow base are
considered evenly acceptable so long as the bloom is fully reflexed
– Color should be uniform throughout the bloom except the young florets at the
Crown may be slightly deeper than the lower more mature florets.
Common Faults:
-Breadth without depth, Daisy eye or elongated centers, Lifting of florets along the shoulders, Uneven floret lay, Tiredness, Spotting or pinking, Damaged or damped off petals, Ragged surface appearance, Blooms not at right angles to the stems, Bumps and hollows and Aphids.

Additional Notes, Intermediates—Sections 5,15 & 25
Four distinct types can be listed
a) Loosely incurving bloom which closes at top
b) Loosely incurving bloom which doesn’t close at top
c) Tightly incurved bloom which doesn’t close at top
d) Bloom with upper florets incurving and lower florets reflexing

The a) Bloom is truly spherical when at peak development is it’s preferable form, though there is nothing to prevent it from being exhibited with a depressed crown(7/8th development) . But where such an intermediate has completely closed at the center and is as such close floret lay that it follows the characteristics of an incurve, it can be exhibited in an incurved class..
–Our ECA blooms, Harold Lawson and Stan Addison well fit this description.
The d) bloom–Some Intermediates have florets which fall in the manner of the reflex to show the inner color of the florets, while the upper florets remain incurved showing the reverse of the floret. With this type of bloom there should be a pleasant combination of colors and a smooth transition from one form to the other such that the bloom is globular when viewed from the side.
Common Faults:
Breadth without Depth, Daisy or Elongated centers, Uneven floret display, Lifted florets, Tiredness, Loose skirting, Blooms not at Right angles to stem, and Aphids.
Additional Notes, sections 6 thr0ugh 10
Anemones section 6 and 26:
– The cushion consisting of highly developed tubular disk florets as viewed from
the side should form an even portion of the outline of a sphere, but not more
than half of a sphere.
-The outline of the cushion as viewed from above should form a circle
-Cushion florets should be even in spacing , at their peak of development, and
fresh to the tips. –The center florets should not forma “dimple”
– The outline of the ray florets should be circular when viewed from above
– The ray florets may be broad ,flat, tubular or pointed. They may be even or
uneven in length, but should be regularly spaced.
-The ray florets should be at right angles to the stem.

Singles, Sections 7,17,& 27
A Single is so classified as having approximately 5 rows of ray florets. Some singles carry a row or two more than the stipulated ideal. Others may have less than 5 rows. All are treated similarly.
-Ray florets should be broad, flat and of even length.
-Ray florets should stand at right angles to the stem at their point of origin and maintain that direction through most of their length
– at the ends, the florets may continue flat to the tips, or Slightly reflex downward at the ends, or slightly reflex upwards at the ends. Where typical of the cultivar, all the variations are acceptable
-The disc should be circular, uniform in its construction and free from malformati0n or scars left by plucking of unwanted florets.
-In all Cases the outline of the tips should be circular when viewed from above.
Pompoms: Sections 8, 18 and 28
-True pompoms have florets of tubular type which build up into a fully globular shape.
-Semi-poms have similar tubular florets but are lacking in true spherical form and finish in the manner of a half sphere.
-In either case, blooms should be at the “seven-eighths” stage or a little further advanced in such fashion that a tiny central area of undeveloped florets is in evidence. Florets should be fresh, unmarked and of good color
Common Faults:
-Elongated or overfull centers, florets discolored at the base, blooms unevenly developed, blooms crowded on the stem.

Fantasies- -Spiders, Quills and Spoons: Section 10
Spiders, section 10a
-The florets of spiders are tubular, sometimes long and very fine, sometimes shorter and of greater substance. They may be tubular to the tip but in some cultivars the tips are open. In all cases the tips are hooked or coiled.
-Exhibition spiders should be double in form. Due to the tubular and often delicate construction of the florets, spiders are frequently reduced in substance relative to quills and spoons and the length of the mature florets is often in contrast to the younger florets near the crown never the less the development should be symmetrical and the blooms of any cultivar should be at a similar stage of development within an exhibit with a button or zone of young florets yet to unfurl.
-Common faults: Disc in evidence, elongated center, asymmetrical development,
Lacking in freshness, Absence if coils or hooks on some florets.

Quills, section 10b
-Florets should be tubular and either open at the tip or closed and pointed. Florets must be straight to the tip and free of hooks or coils. Blooms should be fully double with a button or zone of young florets yet to unfurl.
-The florets are generally less delicate and shorter than those of spiders. This
coupled with the straight florets makes for more globular and symmetric blooms.
-Common Faults:
Disc in evidence, Elongated centers, Asymmetrical development, Gaps in floret
lay, Lacking freshness, tips coiled or hooked.

Spoons: Section 10c:
-Spoons carry only a few rows of ray florets with the disc a prominent feature.
Ray florets should stand at right angles to the stem. They should be straight and
tubular to the greater part of their length with the tips opening in the manner of
a spoon.
-Ray florets may vary in length but in such a way that the bloom tips form an attractive pattern. In each case the circumference of the bloom should be circular in outline.
-The disc should be circular and free from wild petals, malformations and scars from removal of unwanted florets, Disc development should be uniform.

Common Faults:
Disc not circular, Florets not at right angles to the stem, Gaps, uneven spacing of florets, Cocked bloom, Outline of bloom not circular
Staging is essentially a multiple bloom entry problem that perplexes a lot of people. Here’s a few excerpts from the documents that should help clarify if not resolve all issues.
a) Blooms in a vase should be sufficiently spaced to facilitate their individual
examination and enjoyment, yet sufficiently close to ensure that the blooms
stand as a composite whole. “Points must be deducted where blooms are
touching or where they are too widely spread”

b) For 5 bloom vases some general guidelines are offered:
-The height of a central back bloom is first established in the region of 20” to 25”, with the 2
Flanking blooms an inch or so lower and the front 2 blooms an inch or so lower than that.
This is the standard display seen in British shows; however it is not a requirement and many
entries can be shown just as effectively with a nice circle of equal height blooms. Spiders for
instance sometimes stage very nicely in a relatively flat circlecircle.

c) Three blooms per vase were overlooked completely in the published staging rules.
However; 3 bloom entries usually follow the guideline of:
-One rear bloom at a height of 20-25 inches, with two front blooms 1-2 inches lower. Or else
– three blooms of equal height.

Additional notes derived from 2012 Publications
There are some reclassifications for 2012 and some proposed reclassifications. These include but are not limited to:
-Reclass, Mt. Shasta from section 1 to Section 2
-Reclass Kieth Luxford from section 2 to section 1
-Proposed Reclass: all Fairweathers, Reclass from section 3 to section 5
There are probably others we will have to pick up, but per the NCS rulings for 2012, all the reclassified and proposed reclassified cultivars can be shown in either their old and/or classification or both.
In addition we have an NCS exception rule that allows Connie Mayhew to be shown as either a #2 or a #5. And the new rules from the UK clearly allow certain #5s to be entered as #3s.
Another debarkation from what we have previously practiced concerns our Grand Challenge. Per the new rules, In classes where #1s and/or #2s can be exhibited, then the #1s will be judged against the rules for #1s and the #2s will be judged against the rules for #2s. Our past Judging for the Grand Challenge was that #2s could be included but they would be judged against the standards for #1s. I go along with this change.

Summary of entry variation Possibilities:
If you don’t plan to enter any blooms out of their listed classes in the Show catalogue you don’t have anything to worry about, but if you want to legally enter blooms outside their listed classification, consider this
-Only #1s can be entered in section 1 except for the Grand Challenge which
specifically calls for #1s and or #2s.
– Only #2’s can be entered in the #2 section with the exception of Connie Mayhew
Which per The ECA exceptions list can be shown as a #2.
– For section 3; #3s, #5s and #13s can be shown as #3s
-Section 4, show only #4s or #14s
-Section 5, Show only #5s or #15s
-Section 23, show only #13s and#23s
-section 24,show only #14s and #24s

I Hope this sheds new light what constitutes good blooms and exhibits and how they are to be judged; as well as guidance on what can be entered where in our coming 2012 show.
I’m always available to discuss these issues. Please call or email if any questions.

Good Luck, Don Stark 10/05/2012

Showtime and Convention Info

EVERGREEN CHRYSANTHEMUM ASSOCIATION
Seattle, Washington
http://ecamumclub.org/
Nancy Halleen

SHOWTIME!

MEETING OF THE ECA – is scheduled for THURSDAY OCTOBER 11, 2012 at
7:00 PM at the Seattle Police Athletic Association Office (SPAA) site at 11030 East Marginal Way South, Tukwila. This is an important meeting as we develop plans for our annual mum show and, confirm plans for our award banquet. Also on the agenda will be information regarding the NCS Portland Show and Convention.

ANNUAL FLOWER SHOW The E.C.A. annual flower show will be held at Furney’s Nursery, 21215 International Blvd. Pacific Highway (99). on November 2, 3, and 4, 2012. Set up will be Wednesday October 31 at 1 pm and takedown will be on Nov. 4 at 3 pm.

At our October meeting we will discuss details for setting up our show, entering blooms/plants and handling the mechanics of judging and staffing our event. We need all members to attend and volunteer to help with the Show even if you don’t have any flowers to enter. We need Judge’s Helpers and Hosting on Fri, Sat, and Sunday. The Show provides a great way to get to know Club members and learn more about Chrysanthemums.

If you have any questions about the show, please call Ron Elliott our Show Steward. We’ll have copies of the show rules, entry form and name tags for the show at Furney’s (and hopefully at our October meeting.)

TROPHIES
Last year’s Trophy winners please bring your clean trophies and give them to Ron Elliot who will prepare them for this year’s Awards Banquet. If you have not given him your trophy yet, please contact Ron.

ANNUAL AWARDS BANQUET The E.C.A. annual awards dinner is in lieu of the November meeting and will be held at Angelo’s, 601 SW 153rd, Burien, WA. Come at 6:00 PM for the Social Hour, Dinner at 7:00 PM. Everyone is welcome to enjoy an evening with good friends, good conversation and an excellent dinner. Put it on your calendar – THURSDAY NOVEMBER 15th 6-9 PM. Dinner choices this year are 6 oz. Sirloin Steak, Chicken Parmigiana, or a Vegetarian Lasagna. Dinner this year will cost $22/person and includes salad, bread, coffee or tea and dessert. A sign-up sheet where you list your meal preference will be available at the October meeting as well as at Furney’s Nursery during the Flower Show. Please pay the $17/person dinner cost to Chris Brookes at the October meeting (checks made out to ECA). All arrangements must be made by the end of the show (Nov. 4). No payments will be accepted at the banquet.!!. If you have any questions regarding the Banquet, contact Steve. Also: BRING your late maturing blooms for display at the ECA awards dinner.

69th Annual US National Chrysanthemum Society Convention and Show
October 27 – 28, 2012
Monarch Hotel and Convention Center
12566 SE 93rd Avenue
Clackamas, OR

REVIEW THE JUNE AND SEPTEMBER 2012 EDITIONS OF CHRYSANTHEMUM MAGAZINE

For those attending convention:
• Registration $40/per person postmarked 10/1/2012 (Registration form and mailing instructions in June Chrysanthemum Magazine)
• Late registration $50/person after 10/1/2012
• For design entries, space must be reserved by 10/1/2012
• Tours available of Lan Su Chinese Garden ($25/person), Portland Japanese Garden ($25/person) or Kings Mums ($20/person) between 9:30 am and 1:30 pm Friday October 26
• Symposia speakers from Longwood gardens Saturday 1:30 pm – 2:30 pm and 2:45 pm – 4 pm
• Awards Banquet $35/person Saturday evening (7 pm to 10 pm with 3 entree choices made with completion of registration)
• Hotel reservations at NCS rate of $125 per night plus tax available through October 11 for by calling 503-652-1515 or 1-800-492-8700 and requesting NCS rate for stay

For those interested in only attending show and not attending convention or showing blooms:
• Show open to public Saturday October 27 – 1pm to 5 pm
• Show open to public Sunday October 28 – Noon to 4 pm
• Show closes, sale of blooms to public – 4pm
• Show breakdown – 4:30 pm

For those interested in showing blooms:
• Convention registration Thursday October 25 (Noon to 6 pm) and Friday October 26 (9 am to 3 pm)
• Horticulture (cut blooms) and design entries accepted Friday October 26 (7 am to 8 pm). No horticulture entries accepted on Saturday October 27.
• Remember to use US cultivar classifications
• Show Schedule per pages 38 – 47 – NCS, Inc., USA Show and Judges Handbook and information from June and September editions of Chrysanthemum magazine
• Design entries accepted Saturday October 27 (7am to 9 am)
• Judging of show Saturday October 27 (10am to Noon)
• Notify Mark Ross or Ron Elliott if you plan on showing by no later than October 4 to allow them to contact Portland contact to complete a prelist of exhibitors to help save some time with the entry process and entering blooms

Plant culture The October meeting will be devoted to the care and how to prepare your mums for the show. Cultural recommendations are attached. With possible rain or showers, consider your sheltering options for your plants. Ronnie Elliott will have 18” long cedar stakes at the October meeting for those who need them.

December Meeting – ELECTIONS OF NEXT YEAR’S CLUB OFFICERS:

We’re rapidly approaching the time once again to vote for the 2013 ECA Board of Directors/Officers. Recent members are encouraged to fill positions and get involved; seasoned blub members will provide assistance. Members will vote on new Officers during our Dec. 13th meeting.

OCTOBER TO DO LIST drs 9-28-12
This month the focus is on finishing the blooms, preparing them for transport to the show and the grooming and presentation of the blooms for the show.
1. Care and feeding
.Get support sticks under the blooms to keep the blooms upright. A cocked bloom will be severely discounted by the judges. Keep raising the support stake up against the bottom of the bloom to prevent or correct cocking.
.Water and feed plants sparingly at this time (October timeframe). Feed with liquid fertilizer solution about 1 pint per watering, which turns out to be about 1 pint per day. See fertilizer recommendation below. It is good practice to make up a 30 gallon garbage can of fertilizer, and set this can out in the sunlight so that it will remain relatively warm. Then water/feed out of this barrel. Note. If you use fresh tap water instead, you would be feeding with a water temp of below 50 deg. That sets back the plant each time you water. Water/feed sparingly, preferably around 5 pm. Some prefer to water early in the day; but if you do, be sure you use the warm solution from the barrel.
.The recommended dilution of fertilizer is: 1/2 tsp of the20-9-20 Fertilizer plus ¼ tsp of sulphate of potash (0-0-50) per gallon of water. That’s essentially half the usual dilution of 20-9-20 you have been using plus the potash added to harden off the stems and petals.
Sheltering your plants is crucial. Get you plants moved into some sort of shelter where the blooms are protected from rain, wind, and direct sunlight. The blooms do not need direct sunlight but some filtered sunlight is desirable. In glass greenhouses, I have pinned white sheets under the clear roof panes. This filters the sun and additionally collects the dew that develops on the panes at night. Also provide protection from high winds, or else tie up the plants somehow. Also there are sun screen meshes available that can significantly reduce the amount of sunlight that gets through
If you move the plants into enclosed spaces then you must also provide lots of cool dry ventilation to protect against petal rot. Multiple fans blowing across the blooms are the usual solution.
Watch for Aphids. The Marathon Systemic insecticide you used in June or July should protect you very well from aphids; but if you forgot or used too high a dilution; it’s possible you could find aphids in your blooms. It’s possible but risky to spray your blooms with a very fine mist of liquid insecticide such as liquid Diazinon or Nicotine sulfate etc. . If you use this approach you need to repeat every 3-4 days for 3 sprayings. This could in some instances destroy your bloom but so could the aphids, If aphids are in the bloom at the show the bloom will downgraded, or if badly infested the bloom will be removed from the show.

2. Getting ready for the show
.As ShowTime approaches you may be able to speed up bloom development with supplemental heat (Electric heaters) in the in the finishing areas. But some varieties do not like the heat. Likewise, if the bloom is developing too early it may be possible to slow the development by placing it in a cool, darker area i.e., a basement. Of course not all varieties respond well to that either.
Cutting the blooms for the show. Typically we cut the blooms 1-4 days prior to judging.
.I cut #3s (Incurves) 3-4 days before judging. The centers will develop much faster in a vase or
bucket of mildly warm water they will on the plant. Most others I cut 2 days prior to judging.
.Water your plant the night before cutting.
.Start cutting flowers early in the morning. That’s when the stem cells contain the most water.
.Cut the stem approx. 20 in. long. Cut at a slant and immediately put the stems in water (Preferably luke warm). Remove any leaves that would be under water, then recut the stem under water. This removes the air bubbles that cling to the end of the stem and impede the water uptake. Let the cut stem set under water for a few seconds then remove to a vase or water bucket for transport to the show. Following this procedure, the cut bloom should hold up for 1 to 2 weeks. The key is the second cutting under water.

3. Show Materials
. Show materials will be available at the October meeting, and at the Show site. You will need -Entry Forms -Bloom tags-and a Show Rules Book which guides you as to how and where you can enter your blooms. Show vases are provided at the show site, but you must provide your own water born carrier system to get the blooms to the show site.
. Don’t be afraid to ask for help in getting your blooms ready and properly entered into the show.

SEE YOU AT THE OCTOBER 11TH MEETING